Showing posts with label Red Buttes Wilderness. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Red Buttes Wilderness. Show all posts

5 Bolan Mountain Trail

Bolan Mountain - History and Hiking in Josephine County, Oregon


Would you pay pure gold to bowl in the wilderness?  Well, the Oregon gold miners did, and they paid plenty!



In 1853, Oregon's gold rush was in full swing, and there were, as always, those who would find ways to obtain gold without having to break their backs to get it!



Bolan Mountain takes its' name from Bolan Creek, which was originally named "Bowling Creek" because of the bowling alley which was built at the confluence of "Sucker Creek" and "Bowling Creek."  (I'll save the naming of "Sucker Creek" for another day.)



This area was some of the "richest land on earth," and some enterprising men decided to get rich on the "entertainment-starved" miners.



This area is so remote that we drove seventy miles southwest of Grants Pass, Oregon to find it!



The last leg of our journey was on a forestry road that winds in and out of Oregon and California as it travels through the mountains on the border.



In the early mining days, even a trip"out" for supplies would take days of effort, so people freighting in supplies by pack animals were well paid, as the miners dared not leave their claims.



A bowling alley in a place where there wasn't a town, or even a road, was incredible to conceive, but they built it, and it prospered!  That is, until the Indians burned it to the ground!



Then, in 1857 they rebuilt the bowling alley.  Men carried 30 balls and 20 bowling pins on their backs through this rugged country.



We didn't research how long that bowling alley remained, as we were more interested in the hike to the top of now-named Bolan Mountain.



There is a lookout building atop Bolan Mountain, and you can rent the facility when it is not being used for fire spotting.  When you rent it, you get a key for the gate, and can drive up the dirt road to the top.



You are allowed to park below and walk the road up the mountain, or you may continue further down to the incredibly beautiful Bolan Lake,



which is the "hidden gem" of the Oregon/California border.



From this beautiful lake, we took the trail around the other side of the mountain to experience the most amazing views you can imagine.




Mountain ranges go on and on to the horizon, and one experiences a breathtaking panorama of views and shadows that professional photographers would find overwhelming.



Granite and rock cliffs hover overhead,



and every year the water in the cliff cracks freezes and expands, shearing huge slabs off,



to plunge down the steep slopes.




This trail winds through rotting trees,



giant fungus,




and many astoundingly beautiful mountain meadows filled with millions of blooming flowers.



This was such an experience, that once we reached the summit, we retraced our way back along the same trail rather than take a boring road down.



The views from the 6300+ peak are rewarding beyond description.



The Pacific Ocean can be seen just above the distant ridgeline.  The photo doesn't do justice to this scene due to the lack of enough quality lens magnification, heat waves, and shaky amateur photographer.



There was a nice couple from California renting the lookout, but they invited us up for the view.



Everywhere you look on Bolan Mountain, there are such incredible scenes unfolding before ones' eyes, that it's impossible to take everything in.





Just over the nearby forested ridge you can see the beautiful Illinois Valley, which was our beginning point when we left Cave Junction.



The fish were beginning to hit the water as we made it back down.  We wanted to search for the remains of the old bowling alley, but I'm certain that any signs of it were long ago reclaimed by Bolan Mountain.

34 Tanner Lakes Trail

Tanner Lakes, Josephine County, Oregon

A little over an hour from Grants Pass reaches the fringe of the Klamath National Forest, and Tanner Lakes, two beautiful, green, mountain lakes.


We drove on a series of gravel mountain roads until we were stopped by a huge washed-out ravine that pronounced the road dead.


From there a trail leads up the mountain in a series of switchbacks that makes the going a lot more manageable.


Our path wound through the magnificent forests on trails made silent by the pine needles.  Not silent enough however for the ever present maitre'ds of the forests; the Jays.  They and the squirrels made certain we needed no further introduction on our trip through their gorgeous home.





Our goal was easily reached as suddenly a beautiful mountain lake appeared before us.  A scene reminiscent of Jenny Lake in the Grand Tetons only on a much smaller scale.  This was Tanner Lake.


Another mile up and over the next ridge led us to East Tanner Lake, which is smaller but said to be deeper.  The clear green waters reflected the glorious greenery and myriads of orange butterflies flitted playfully along the waters' edge.

With deteriorating logs around the lake, the parts submerged are perfectly preserved; I lifted out a sunken piece of rotting log, and it was as strong and resilient as if it were cut from a green tree.

Leaving the second Tanner Lake, we completed a circuitous route around the other side of the mountain and eventually connected with the remnants of the other part of the road that led back to the washout where we started, and finally spotted our vehicle from the other side of the gully.









The whole trip without the sound of a vehicle and not even a contrail to mar the clear blue sky. 





35 Tanner Mountain Summit Trail


Beginning our trip from Grants Pass, Oregon, we headed Southwest on Highway 199, which is called the Redwood Highway, as it will take you to the majestic redwood forests in California.  At Cave Junction, we headed toward California Via Waldo Road, which becomes Happy Camp Road.  Just after entering California, we turned left into the Siskiyou National Forest, and after meandering back and forth over the state lines, we finally reached our jumping-off point in Oregon, and Josephine County. We were fortunate this time of year to drive far in without 4 wheel drive. We began our hike in the Red Buttes Wilderness area.


The trail winds uphill, through thick forests that thin out gradually as we climb.


The silence is incredible!


There are no sounds, other than our footsteps, and my labored breathing.

No birds were present at this altitude, as there really isn't anything for them to eat.

Talk about the "forest primeval", when a tree dies, it may still remain standing for another fifty-plus years. Protected by its neighbors, it could stand guard for a hundred years, unless fire should expose it to the winds by clearing away its defenders.

There is an occasional sound of a chipmunk scurrying away from our approach, but you can hear your heartbeat up here. Not a plane, or vehicle!


This bear sign was exciting to find, as we saw places that had been ravaged, likely so it could dig up a squirrel, or some ants for lunch.   Desperation for adventure must have taken over for me to resort to photos of scat!


From alongside the trail, the terrain beyond is wild, and beautiful!


Underbrush is not difficult to bypass, as it grows slow this high up.


The bears sometimes hasten the decay of the rotting trees. This one was likely here long before Christopher Columbus was even born.


Do I see an end to this trail?


Looking back, at my wife following behind with our other dog, as I break trail to fend off the creatures of the mountain, and listen for the cry of the Sasquatch.


Wow! Just as I thought we had made it to the top, I cross the beautiful meadow, and as I peer over the edge, I see More mountain!  A LOT MORE Mountain!


This is not the peak, so we trudge across, and up the meadow.


This is a view into the "roadless" wilderness.


As we reach the upper end of the steep meadow, the actual peak is challenging my 70 years, and I wonder if I am even capable of making such a climb.  After a lifetime of wearing a tie, and dress clothes, where the highest climb I had to make was up the "corporate ladder", this seemed a bit much.  Also being as I hate heights, what a challenge!


Beginning the assault on the summit, and my better sense, the views became even more incredulous for a city boy.


Looking back down was easier.


The trail winds along the edge in places to avoid the ancient, twisty, and very thick mountain shrubs.


Now we can see another mountain range in the other direction.


Now, we are close to the sheer face of the summit, and it makes me wonder how the "real" mountain climbers ever get the nerve the first time the one of these things going straight up the cliff!


Only one time-ravaged tree remains.  There are no signs of others, and it sits as a silent sentinel about halfway up to the peak.  If only we could observe what it has seen.  When you consider how long it took to grow at over six thousand feet this is really astounding.


Made it!  Here we are, dogs, and all!  The only thing miserable about the entire trip was the thousands of BLACKFLIES!

I have heard about them, but in 3 and a half years in the area this was my first encounter.  There were literally well over a thousand of the innocuous, vile creatures.  They covered the entire peak, and my immediate thought was that we may find something dead, but a quick look around revealed nothing.  I did not get the feeling of being bitten, as I have had several thousand mosquitoes on me in a Minnesota swamp before, but they were so thick that they just covered us completely!  Just a few feet from the top, and the flies returned to their homes; the invaders retreating.


How interesting would it have been to be on the U.S.Geological Survey team? Wherever we go, it seems that these folks were already there.  Looking  We are at 6298 feet above sea level.  I think a trip to the coast will be necessary for me to decompress!


Below us is Tanner Lake.  We have hiked in to this lake, and its little sister East Tanner lake before, and the trail to the lakes also will wind up to where we now stand, but it becomes a total hike of about seven and a half miles which at that time was too much of a challenge for the old guy to care for!

I must confess that my wife took this photo, as I felt mine may have been blurred (which it turned out to be), and I hate heights so much that she got this photo!


You can barely see East Tanner lake in the photo center, but I took it quickly, as the only thing I hate more than looking up, is looking down!


This is from the other side of the peak.


Looking back up at the summit was so much easier, and I realized it was not so bad after I got used to it.  Next, I think of Grayback Mountain: it's over 7000 feet.


A glance back at the sentry tree, and we depart.


Do I see a way up the face?  Forgedaboudit!


Wow, More scat. This time from an elk.


And a Coyote!  I found what I'm certain was a cougar track, but it wouldn't photo.


Also footprints!  Isn't it great that we could bring you all of these signs, and scat?  Anyone can photograph animals, but whoever gets these kinds of mementos?

I know, my wife thinks it's dumb also!


Signs of coyotes are everywhere, as the attempt to dig out the ground dwelling chipmunks.


Now that the peak is over the hill it looks a lot more tame.


The trail back down.


The Tanner Mountain summit is far up and to the right.


Looking Northeast.


One of the lesser peaks on our way out.  The view below is the edge of the cliff-side road, and looking into California.

Thanks for viewing, and WELCOME TO OREGON!